Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the designers of Proenza Schouler, have a lot going on with them: the fashion superstars whose entire graduation collection was ordered by Barneys, the first winners of CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund, one of the hottest style leaders in New York for the past decade, the next fashion bigwigs the industry put a lot of hope on. Now they are leaving for Paris. This is their last show in New York.
Nothing nostalgic. Nothing cynical. It is direct, it is cool. It is Proenza Schouler. The palette of this collection is black and white, blue and red, alternated with grey and silver. Polished leather jacket, lacquered pants, foil, Sequins, metallics … The fabric tells you this is a collection for tough girls. The whole collection is also full of a deconstructed and reconstructed vibe. While the neat and clear cutouts with the geometric offset the muss, it delivers a strong sense of vibrant, modernist and futurist. This runway show has not much to say about the politic, the current social issues or even the democratization of fashion. They were just pacing their own style and having a moment.
The highlight of this collection is definitely the asymmetrical design applied on collars, sleeves and hems, the bold slashed dresses showing the curve of hip— not feminine, but still, sexy. Stripes are the major theme: graphics on the tops, the excess part of D-ring belt, the streamer printed with the logo, also the cut. It appears on jackets, trousers and dresses, bringing the clothes a touch of briskness.
There is a lot contrast, with different color, texture of fabrics and asymmetry. The oversize coat is never dated, and the pointy-toed shoes, strappy sandals just go with everything. The high-waist blue lacquered pants are exactly what you want to light up the boring palette of city dress without losing the tough girl vibe.
The lasting applause at the end of the farewell show is not out of courtesy. Let’s hope they will be back to New York soon with refreshing designs!