Some brought an orchestra to the runway, some brought the runway to the streets, without music, completely silent. While the live performance Mr. Kors introduced to his runway show might still linger, Marc Jacobs put on a completely silent show on the Park Avenue Armory, ending the New York Fashion Week with a high note.
The political statements flood in every aspect of the fashion industry, making me somehow suspicious if parts of it were just another marketing strategy, same as publishers using the cursing words on self-help books in order to increase sell. Marc Jacobs, however, seems to make a statement against showmanship: guest-no-photos policy, eliminate the runway music, no stage setting besides two rows of bare metal folding chairs and a giant wall of speaker piled up on the roadside. As simple as that…or may be not. Who know if it were just little tricks Jacobs plays? The collection is full of drama. And I love the pure fashion statement.
The first thing to notice, undoubtedly, is the eye-catching exaggerated hats that remind me of the bearskin hat British royal guards wear. But they— also the whole collection—were actually inspired by the documentary “Hip-Hop Evolution.” The style of the 80s in particular.
"Several months ago I watched a documentary called, "Hip-Hop Evolution." The 4-Part series chronicles the poignant and pivotal cultural movement that reshaped and redefined the landscape of music, which gave way to a whole new language of style. As a born and bred New Yorker, it was during my time at the High School of Art and Design when I began to see and feel the influence of hip-hop on other music as well as art and style. This collection is my representation of the well-studied dressing up of casual sportswear. It is an acknowledgement and gesture of my respect for the polish and consideration applied to fashion from a generation that will forever be the foundation of youth culture street style." – @themarcjacobs on #MJFW17
The overall retro vibe is plain and clear. So is the target market: Marc Jacobs wants to sell a kind of personality, an attitude. The set up of this show tells it. And this intention is strengthened again by his opening model Slick Woods, who loved for her say-it-as-feel-it personality, who is an off-duty friend of Gypsy Sport designer Rio Uribe. Uribe just made quite a strong and bold political statement affirming the liberal in his successful runway show. Yet, MJFW’s show is more or less echoing with the anti-establishment ideology in the pop culture realm.
So what is good about this “pure fashion statement” show? It delivers. This collection has all the detachment or fantasy we expect from a fashion show as well as practical inspirations for the upcoming trends of daily outfits.
A tight keyhole drop-waist dress inside and an over-sized fur-collared coat outside is the couple for a party next fall. Turtleneck knit and funnel sweatshirt with zipper in the front are the essence of a cozy, yet fashionable look. And that can’t do without the magic of boot-cut track pants. It is also time to reinvent the use of corduroy to wake up our wardrobe—play with more types of fabric! In fact, we have seen the sign of the comeback of track pants and “dated” fabric like velvet and corduroy in the late 2016. This must continue to be trendy for a while.
The hat. The jewelry. The shoes. They are shining on the runway! They are exaggerated for sure, but fashionista don’t need another “basic.”
The hats on the runway were all created by Stephen Jones Millinery. They were super tall, super big, super dramatic, but looking super dope! Instead of beanies that are all over the street, we might consider a designer hat to show personality next fall when the wind blows our heads out.
Bling, Bling, Bling. Marc Jacobs uses a lot of color brown in this collection. It goes with the hip-hop chains and the striking earrings. It gives a mixed sense of athleisure, effortless luxury and fashionable.
Considering the over-sized track pant is a must, we would need a stylish retro, sturdy platforms shoes to pair with as well as balancing the dramatic hats.
Being a designer in New York is too easy to be picked on. Fashion editors and the society expect you to “speak to the current mood in society,” tell stories and express ideology about the immediate world, to be outrage about social issues. Marc Jacobs tasted a bit of that last season for not credit blacks for dreadlocks and not using black models. Indeed, this collection doesn’t reflect the woman power and immigrant right and the like. The theme seems to come out from nowhere. But it is generally a good thing for designer to stay themselves, do whatever they found inspirational and free from political censorship. They don’t commit to the mission which the Vogue editors and many other fashion critics wish them to.